Restaurant-Dining Critiques

On the second floor of the Eight Thonglor Building on the corner of Thong Lor and Soi 8 the sushi bar is on the left along with some well appointed private rooms and the Korean Barbeque Japanese-style is at the back and on the left.
Sushi-chu imports fresh seafood that is transported from Tsukiji, the best fish market in Tokyo, three times a week by air. They are able to do this since their head office is located in Chichibu, Japan and overseen by General Manager, Fukushima.
The sushi is absolutely fresh; they do not depend on anything else to embellish the taste.
The Japanese BBQ restaurant follows the original recipes from Tokyo Calbi House using special Calbi sauce. The Japanese BBQ chef is, 26 years old, Sutsakrn Wongtakee he has had 13 years experience in preparing meat.
It is also very pleasant that in this combo of restaurants you have the opportunity to start with sushi or sashimi as an appetizer and then follow with Japanese BBQ.
Carnival has a broad selection of Japanese Sake and Shochu.
The Japanese barbecue is certainly the best quality you can find in Bangkok and the sushi that is imported from Japan is fresh and excellent as well.
Now that there are two in different parts of the city it makes it more convenient to indulge in these great tastes of Japan.

Pictured above on the right: Philippe Peretti owner of Philippe Restaurant, Bangkok, on the left: Herve Frerard, of Le Beaulieu Restaurant

Escoffier Dinner
1 December 2008

It turned out to be an excellent dinner with a great pairing of French cuisine by Philippe Restaurant presented brilliantly, by Chef and Owner Philippe Peretti and wines compliments of Gfour Co. Ltd.

Thanks goes to Peter Brongers, President of Escoffier Thailand Chapter, for all his effort in putting this gala dinner together.

The Menu including Wines and Grappa
Aperitif
Amuse Bouche
Prosecco Cuvee Torri  di Credazzo Follador

Langoustine Salad with Truffle Cappuccino
Pinot Grigio Liveo Felluga 2007

Roasted Cobia Kingfish Filet with Chorizo Risotto and Red bell Pepper Sauce

Trou Normand

Wild Boar Stew with Chestnuts
Boccadigabbia Pix Merlot 2001

Brie de Meaux Cheese with Truffles

Nougat Glacé

Coffee / Tea
Grappa La Centenara

Thanks to Gfour Co. Ltd. for the Wine Selection

I made the trek quite regularly to Manhattan Beach to a little store front in a large strip mall where a Southwestern restaurant called St. Estephe was located. The Chef/partner John Sedlar was turning out some very upscale cuisine and quite unlike anything in the area; it almost seemed out-of-place at the time. I visited him less often at the oddly named Abiquiu (its namesake is a small town in New Mexico) in Santa Monica.
In December he is about to open Rivera across the street from L.A. Live with partners Bill Chait, founder of Louise’s Trattoria chain, and designer Eddie Soto a former Disney imaging technician. Sedlar has developed a new twist on Latin Cuisine with touches of gastronomic molecular chemistry à la Ferran Adrià. There will also be the Samba Lounge with a bar menu featuring Ceviche and other raw items and the Playa Bar.
Small plates will range from $8 to $16, and full-plate entrées will run from $18 to $29. It could be that the check average could be $35 to $45 per person.

According to Bill Chait, “The price point is designed in a way so that people can eat casually and spend only $30 for dinner.

It will be interesting to see how this restaurant and Celestino Drago’s “Drago Centro”, both establishments coming from seasoned operators, go down in downtown Los Angeles. Most probably, they will do well.

Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé! Celebration party at Hôtel Plaza Athénée, Bangkok

The 2008 vintage resulted in a late harvest. The first grapes were picked on 15 September while the last of them were harvested in early October.

Perfect balance was reached due to the exceptionally fine weather during this crucial harvest period.

Grape bunches were allowed to stay on the vines a few days longer, which meant more intense concentration in the fruit however, yields were extremely low in all appellations of Beaujolais.

Critical Information: Grape Variety: Gamay, Region: Beaujolais, France, Harvest Commensed: September 15th 2008 100% by hand, Alcohol by Volume: 12%, Realeased 20 November 2008
This Beaujolais wine event took place at Reflections Restaurant in the Hôtel Plaza Athénée on Wireless Road, Bangkok accompanied by a sumptuous display of French delicacies from charcuterie, foie gras, main courses to cheese and desserts. George Duboeuf wines supplied by Italthai.

Following are a few winemakers, located around the city of Avignon, with very reasonable prices :

Domaine Deforge, 5.40 euros/bottle

Since the end of the 13th century a 30 hectares plot called “la Palestine” located in Châteauneuf de Gadagne. In 1966 the French jockey Jean Deforge purchased it and it has been known as Domaine Deforge since then.
Domaine Deforge is situated at the East of Avignon city on a plateau overlooking the Rhône valley. It gets  maximal sunshine and is made up of rolled shingles. This soil has an earliness flavor which allows an optimal maturity of the grapes (it has the same soil as Châteauneuf du Pape vineyards).

Domaine du Bois de Saint-Jean, 8 euros/bottle
Vincent Anglès
126 av de la République
84450 Jonquerettes
Tel: (33) 490 22 53 22
Tasting by rendez-vous

Caves Terres d’Avignon, 6.30 euros/bottle
Jacques Faure
583, Route de la Gare
84470 Chateauneuf de Gadagne
Tél. 04 90 33 55 21
Fax: 04 90 33 55 22
Email : p.loiseleur@terresdavignon.com
Retour caves & domaines

Chateau de Fontesgugne, 5.50 euros/bottle
976 Rte de St. Saturnin 84470 Chateauneuf de Gadagne
Tél 04.90.22.58.91 - Fax 04.90.22.42.40 Qualité Degré Cuve
AOC Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2004

The monthly Beef & Burgundy lunch for August was held at Beccofino Italian Restaurant in Bangkok.
Following is an official account of the lunch with minor editing:
Beccofino received us back after an absence of two years. It was apparent that several members are regulars at this popular Italian restaurant on Thong Lor. A total of 16 were expected and the number grew to 17 with the arrival of Michael Holt from Auckland B&B. In deference to the restaurant’s provenance, proceedings commenced with the quaffing of Prosecco, that increasingly popular vino frizzante from the hills behind Venice; this one was very good and matched well the canapés presented by Chef Angelo. Minus one (usual) culprit, we sat down to lunch in the main restaurant in the “expensive” seats, namely those nearest the window from where the comings and goings of the Thong Lor hoi polloi could be observed. The antipasta misto alla Italiano was superb: a succulent mixture of Italian meats and Mediterranean vegetables. With it came Barth Rene Reisling 2005 from French Alsace and a history lesson from Tim Randall. Wine spokesperson Julian Merrill thought it was over-acidic until he had consumed some food, then it received somewhat begrudging approval. Next came risotto al funghi porcini e zafferino. I’m not a risotto lover, but this was good, and those who were declared it to be excellent. Peter Williams had chosen Villa Cernas Chianti Classico Riserva 2003 to go with this. Julian’s first thought was too much tannin but confessed it matched the food extremely well. The main course comprised Grilled Ozzie Wagyu-style beef with sautéed potatoes. I thought it was excellent, being cooked to perfection, moist, flavoursome and not such a large portion that anyone was over-faced by the size. We drank (the last of Peter’s) Fermoy Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 with this, and very nice it was too.
Proceedings were concluded with heaps and heaps of Italian soft cheeses followed by Chef Angelo serving each of us with a selection of some carefully prepared and very tasty desserts. Earlier we had sung
Happy Birthday to Soi Dog Grahame Fox who was UK-bound the next day to spend the actual anniversary in a Scottish dog-house. Mark Ryan, food spokesperson, enlivened the proceedings by bestowing an appropriate number of “Woofs” upon each course. Foxy translated this for our benefit into praise for the work done the staff. Michael Holt assured one and all that a warm welcome for B&B dinner would be extended to anyone visiting Auckland on the last Tuesday of each month.

About Beefsteak & Burgundy Club:
Each Club limits its membership to 30. There are all male clubs, all ladies clubs and mixed clubs.
The objects of the Club: “To promote good fellowship and goodwill amongst all sections of the community. To further the education of its members and the community in the appreciation and understanding of good food and wines.”
Branches are as follows:

UNITED KINGDOM
LONDON 55 Male London

JAPAN
TOKYO 126 Male Tokyo

CANADA
SUDBURY 193 Mixed Sudbury
STONETOWN 227 Male Stonetown

PEOPLES REPUBLIC of CHINA
BEIJING 212 Male Beijing
SHANGHAI 238 Male Shanghai
SHANGHAI LADIES 257 Ladies Shanghai

BRAZIL
BRAZIL 235 Male Sao Paulo

SINGAPORE
SINGAPORE 254 Male Singapore

THAILAND
BANGKOK 249 Male Bangkok

U.S.A.
St Francis 214 Male San Francisco

DENMARK
Copenhagen 256 Male Copenhagen

Wally’s Wine & Spirits
2107 Westwood Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90025
Tel. (310) 475-0606
www.wallywine.com

“The # 1 Wine Shop in Los Angeles”– Zagat Survey

Steve Wallace, the owner of Wally’s, and I have known each other for a long time, back to the Volkswagen importer, John Von Neumann’s disco “The Wheel” in Beverly Hills. A few years later Steve helped me a great deal to provide enough Romanee Conti for my recording industry customers when I owned Au Petit Café restaurant in Hollywood. When I was scrambling around trying to find wines that were in extremely short supply such as certain wines from the DRC; the top A & M Records executives along with recording artist, Sergio Mendes alone were drinking my official allotment from the distributor for the year, in a week or two! It was then off to Steve’s store on Pico Blvd., where he had a hidden wine cellar under the floor of his liquor store, a trap door opened and an old wooden stairway led down into a makeshift cellar with case upon wooden case of the greatest wines of France.
In those days, mid to late sixties, Romanee Conti was fetching the highest price on my wine list at $125 a bottle, followed by Ch. Lafite Rothschild at $100. Hard to believe, knowing what these wines sell for on today’s market.

Wally’s has the the most comprehensive selection where it counts, on extravagant and hard to find wines and spirits, as well as more affordable choices. Wine classes, tasting, appreciation for beginners; accessories, gourmet foods, gift baskets, wine lockers, wine events and a newsletter. They do ship worldwide.

In short, Wally’s has it all in one large location on the west side of Los Angeles.

Wine Tasting Held At:
Dubliner
440 Sukhumvit Rd,
(Washington Square, Soi 22)
Bangkok, Thailand
Tel. +66 2204 1841/2

Bernard Hudelot who is both a professional viticulturist and a Professor of Wine at France’s Dijon University has brought samples of his wines again to Bangkok and I have tasted them for the second time. www.domainedemontmain.fr
There were differences, as is normal, on the same wines; some showed better last time than on this tasting but this is all due to transport and so many other factors. Overall, most of the wines were drinking very well, however, can we expect them to even approximate what we tasted tonight or on the last tasting if they are transported commercially rather than hand-carried? The answer is no! Look at the years, all so fragile.
Wines tasted on 7 August at the Dubliner were the following:

1996 Les Genévrières Château de Villars Fontaine

1997 Château de Villars Fontaine Hautes Côtes de Nuits “Le Rouard”

1991 Château de Villars Fontaine Hautes Côtes de Nuits “Le Rouard”

1991 Hautes Cotes de Nuits, Les Genévrières

2003 Château de Villars Fontaine, Le Rouard

2005 Château de Villars Fontaine Grand Tradition, Les Jiromees

Pacific City Club
28th Floor, Two Pacific Place
142 Sukhumvit Rd.
Bangkok 10110
Tel. 02 653 2450-63

A tasting of organic wines from Frankland Estate, Western Australia was held on the 28th floor of Pacific Place at the elegantly decorated, Pacific Club, a private club overlooking the city, on Wednesday, 6 August 2008. The event was hosted by FIN Wine, www.take-fin.com a distribution company and Jan Ganser, managing director along with Benjawan Wisootsat. Also present representing the Frankland Estate was Hunter Smith www.franklandestate.co.au
General Manager Artur Kluczewski, www.pacificcityclub.com who is well-know in Bangkok, told me that they have a new French chef and I shall return shortly to sample his cuisine.
I was particularly impressed with a wine made in the Bordelais style: Olmo’s Reward, Frankland Estate, Western Australia 2001 a new-world St.Emilion, Robert Parker gave it 91 points. Two Shiraz a 2002 and 2005 were also good although all these wines are high alcohol 14.5%.
Also tasted were several Rieslings from Germany and Austria.

This evening is for and about Mr. Riccardo Tedeschi and his wonderful wines from Verona and was given at Becccofino Restaurant, Bangkok.

Riccardo Tedeschi, the winemaker from Tedeschi winery in Vernona, email:wines@tedeschiwines.com, website: www.tedeschiwines.com, who produces supple examples of Valpolicella Classico and Amarone, hosted a Wine Maker Dinner along with G Four International email:tamara@gfour.co.th at Beccofino Restaurant website: www.beccofino.co.th, email: info@beccofino.co.th, on Soi Thonglor, on Saturday night, July 26th 2008. The menu and wines follow:

Warm salad with tiger prawns, avocado and semi dried cherry tomatoes

Insalata tiepida di gamberi e avocado con pomodorini Pachino semi secchi

Bianco di Custoza 2007

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Herb crusted fillet of Japanese tuna with zucchini, fresh tomato, onion and basil

Filetto di tonno in crosta di erbe con zucchine, cipolla e pomodoro fresco al basilico

Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006

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Buckwheat tagliolini with porcini mushrooms and shaved Parmesan cheese

Tagliolini biologici al farro con funghi porcini e scaglie di Parmigiano

Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso Capitel San Rocco 2005

La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006

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Braised wagyu beef in red wine served with steamed seasonal vegetables

Stufato di manzo Austaliano servito con verdure di stagione al vapore

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2004

Amarone della Valpolicella Capitel Monte Olmi 2004

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Chocolate tower with mascarpone and coffee mousse, caramelized dry fruit

Torretta di cioccolato con crema al mascarpone

e caffè, frutta secca caramellata

Grappa di Amarone

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Lavazza Coffee or tea

Chocolate truffles

Caffè Lavazza o tè e cioccolatini

Baht 2,500 ++ per person

LIFETIME – January 2001
“… During a September visit, I was impressed with the outstanding quality from
producers focused on every aspect of winemaking…Tedeschi is another family-owned
winery with single-vineyard and traditional Valpolicella and Amarone. One of the
daughters completed a study that showed the benefits of the semi-dried grapes used in
making Amarone for lowering cholesterol”

WINE MAGAZINE – ENJOYING MEDITERRANEAN REDS – May,2003
VALPOLICELLA DEI NICALO 1999 TEDESCHI

Made by the young winemaker Riccardo Tedeschi, with the help of father Renzo,…This has a classic mature Valpolicella nose. Slightly farmyardy in style, it manages to be complex and intriguing without ever being heavy.