Archive for the ‘Paris’ Category

L’Ecluse Madelaine, Bar à Vins Restaurant – Paris

Saturday, November 7th, 2009

L'Ecluse, Paris

L’Ecluse Madelaine
Bar  à Vins Restaurant
15, Place de la Madelaine
Paris, France 75008
Tel. +33.01.42653469

There are several branches around Paris all offering a wine selection of strictly red Bordeaux, many are available by the glass although, as would be the case with Bordeaux the white wine choices are weak.
The menu is brief however, providing top quality is a high priority.
The Branches:

L’Ecluse Madeleine
 – 15, place de la Madeleine, 8e

L’Ecluse Saint Honoré
 – 34, place du Marché Saint-Honoré

L’Ecluse -
 15, Quai des Grands Augustins

L’Ecluse Bastille – 
13, rue de la Roquette

L’Ecluse Carnot – 1, rue d’Armaillé, 17e

L’Ecluse François  – 
64, rue François 1er, Paris 8e

A Bizarre Evening at “Le Petit Laugier” – Paris

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009

l' Entredgeu, Paris

l’Entredgeu (formerly Le Petit Laugier)
83 rue Laugier
75017, Paris

This little bistro l’Entredgeu replaced “1880″ and has taken the same location of a bistro that I dined at a few years ago where I experienced a very unusual evening.

We were just beginning to eat the amazingly sublime chicken liver salad, one of the dishes this small bistro, Le Petit Laugier was known for. I lifted the first forkful of the warm, pink, and peppery liver that was a perfect contrast to the crisp and cool, bitter and vinegary greens. At the same time, a couple was struggling to leave the long, crowded table next to us, which was difficult from their position in the middle of the banquette. Somewhat trapped standing halfway out and halfway in an attractive women with long brown hair was being playfully groped by another woman who would not let her pass. She was protesting slightly and laughingly crying out, “rape, rape.” At this point the other woman became more aggressive and put her hand under her skirt, she struggled free and started to kiss and pet her long-haired lap dog, cuddled in the arms of the man accompanying her. The other women, in a final gesture, lifted her own skirt and exposed her frontal area; she was not wearing anything underneath! I had no idea what was going on, it was totally unexpected, as I had not been briefed about what went on here. I asked my dining companion, an old roué and longtime resident in Paris (of course, it was his suggestion that we dine here in the first place) “What goes on in this crazy place”.  He explained to me, “Sunday nights are special nights with a special crowd. On other evenings during the week, it becomes just another quiet neighborhood bistro but on Sunday night anything can happen, and does.”

He went on to tell me that years ago it was the meeting place for vintage Morgan automobile owners of France. He motioned toward two middle-aged ladies sitting chatting at one of the window tables. “They must be the wives of two of the Morgan owners that used to meet here.” They were so engrossed in conversation that they were unaware of what was going on around them. My friend, hoping to spice things up, said something in French to the woman who had just lifted up her skirt. She came over to me and put her face down close to mine as if to kiss; I could smell the rancid odor of cigarette breath, stale garlic and perspiration and  turned my head away from hers.

Has anyone else ever been to this place on a Sunday night?

Les Papilles, Wine Bistro – Paris

Wednesday, September 2nd, 2009

Les Papilles
30, rue Gay-Lussac
75005 Paris
Tel. 01 43 25 20 79
Opening Hours: Monday-Saturday,10:30 a.m.-midnight. Lunch: noon-2pm; Dinner: 7:30pm-10pm Closed Sunday.
Website: www.lespapillesparis.fr
Credit Cards: Yes
Prices: Moderate

Les Papilles is a bistro combined with a retail wine store. The name means “sense of pleasurable taste” or “taste buds”, only it means more than that. The policy they are using regarding wine pricing, is a quite common and successful one that we see used more and more these days; sell the bottle at the takeaway price and add a small markup to consume it on the premises. The kitchen is serving good straightforward dishes that are visually appealing yet not frou-frou in the least.

Chez Rene – Paris

Friday, March 20th, 2009

14 bd. St-Germain
The Quartier Latin
Paris
Tel. 01-43-54-30-23
Cuisine: Bistro
Location: Quartier Latin
Metro: Maubert-Mutualité
Opening Hours: Dinner: Tues-Sat; Lunch: Tues-Fri; Closed Sun, Mon, Christmas Week, and Aug
Credit Cards: Visa, M.C.
Prices: Inexpensive-Moderate

Chez René is a classic bistro located at the foot of Boulevard St. Germain. They serve good, classic renditions of boeuf bourguignon, coq au vin, cuisse de grenouilles and other Burgundian standards that are becoming harder to find as more modern fare comes into favor.  Although ownership has changed, the authentic bistro favorites have not, at least they were still in place on my last visit. Due to the fluctuating inconsistencies of the restaurant business, one who attempts to write about them and those that read their words, must keep in mind that nothing is cast in bronze and what was true a day ago might not be so now; and that is why I lean toward more of a comment-style than a review-style when reporting on restaurants. These dishes may not be exactly in vogue today, the contents on the plate are not stacked to form a tower and damn it, on occasion it is quite pleasing to have everything on the ground floor as after all, this is bistro cooking not haute cuisine.
The wine list is dominated by wines from the Mâconnais and Beaujolais regions, which as it happens is your best bet.


Le Pré Catelan – Paris

Thursday, March 12th, 2009

Bois de Boulogne
Route de Suresnes Map
75016 Paris
Tel. 01 44 14 41 14
Métro: Porte Maillot (thereafter taxi)
eMail : leprecatelan-salons@lenotre.fr
Website: www.precatelanparis.com
Credit Cards: All major
Prices: Expensive-Very Expensive

On several visits Le Pré Catelan has shown beyond a doubt to be absolutely first rate down to the minutest detail, from service to the outstanding cuisine and not to forget the superb setting in the Napoleon III style pavilion surrounded by forest.

Opening its doors in 1907, in the Bois de Boulogne, the Le Pré Catelan has been visited by royalty, presidents and Captains of Industry over more than a century. It is a lovely location, and an absolute must on any gourmet journey. Chef Frédéric Anton, once next in command to Joël Robuchon, delights guests with his sophisticated culinary artistry and amazing technical insight. The restaurant’s sommelier will guide you through the extensive wine menu with its comprehensive selections from all wine-producing regions of France from the large cellar.

Gaston Lenôtre, Founder of Maison Lenôtre, has passed away

Thursday, March 12th, 2009

Gaston Lenôtre died on Thursday, January 8, 2009 at the age of 88 after a long illness at his home in Sologne, where he retired with his wife Catherine in the early 1990s. He was the founder of Maison Lenôtre, which also operated Le Pré Catelan. Maison Lenôtre was acquired by the Accor Group where it became its prestige signature.

Buddha Bar – Paris

Thursday, March 12th, 2009

photo credit: Buddha Bar

8/12, rue Boissy d’Anglas
75008 Paris
Tel. 33.(0)1.53.05.90.00
Fax. 33.(0)1.53.05.90.09
Email: buddhabar@buddhabar.com
Website: www.buddhabar.com
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Very Expensive

Still Going Strong, the Buddha-Bar’s large dining room dominated by a huge golden Buddha, is much like dining in a fish bowl, as tipplers from the bar mezzanine above are able to look down through lacy wrought-iron balustrades into the dining area, although you might not realize it unless you look up.
The dim lighting, dark mahogany furniture, Chinese and Japanese objet d’art, along with other asian decorations gives the otherwise boisterous night spot a somewhat calm state.
The now well-known albums and DVDs compiled by the proprietor Raymond Visan’s George V Records label also include some original tracks by leading recording artists. Buddha Bars are springing up in many other locations and at latest tally: Buddha-Bar Paris, Buddha-Bar Dubai, Buddha-Bar Beirut, Buddha-Bar Cairo, Buddha-Bar London, Buddha-Bar Kiev. Buddha-Bar Jakarta, Buddha-Bar Sao Paolo, Buddha-Bar Dublin
Buddha-Bar Prague. He also is embarking into the hotel and resort business by opening some properties in far-flung places such as in eastern-european countries and locations as remote as Panama.
The decor is admittedly fantastic, though looking beyond all the press over the years hyping the top-crust crowds flocking to this club it seems to me; that it just may be cubic zirconia posing as diamonds? It really doesn’t matter, as everyone is having a good time, although as an aside, I have observed that the clientele in the mezzanine has increasingly become balanced a little too heavily in middle-eastern customers.

Fish La Boissonnerie – Paris

Friday, February 20th, 2009

69, rue du Seine, Paris 6.
Telephone: 01 43 54 34 69.
Closed Monday.
Credit Cards: Yes
Prices: Moderate
21.50 € lunch menu. 32.50 € dinner menu.  A la carte, 30 €.

The space in this building was originally a fish shop and opened as a bistro in the late 90’s by two New Zealanders and a Cuban-American. They also own a Wine Shop around the corner called Paris La Dernière Goutte and this is the reason that the P has changed to B in Boissonnerie as Poisson is fish and Boisson is drink in French; and the reason that they have an exceptional wine list.
The Flying Fish Menu for 10 euros at lunch is a bargain (includes a salad and a choice of pasta).

“Celebrity-Chef Bistros” a Growing Trend – Paris

Tuesday, February 3rd, 2009

In the late eighties two-star Michelin Chef Michel Rostang started the Bistro trend with an eye towards lowering prices. Since that time other starred chefs have done the same and as of late they have been sprouting up like mushrooms, in fact, some of these starred chefs have opened multiple bistros.
To make things worse the French, as well as Americans, and now most of the rest of the world, have been in the throes of a deep recession that some financial analysts are calling a full-blown depression.
This financial crisis makes it passé to brazenly spend money, so save for some customers from Asia and Russia who may not have realized this yet, most people are more cautious when it comes to spending money in ultra-expensive restaurants and may not show up as often or at all.
However, the tremendous upsurge of the popularity of bistros is not entirely due to frugality. The pace of life has changed, and things have generally become more casual even in Paris, who bravely resisted giving into this trend longer than anywhere else. Look around at what average people consider glamorous today, just take the show-business stars, for instance, they are not the impeccably dressed, chic, and attractive beauties of the past but just common looking persons mirroring the general population; not someone to look up to—but someone to feel on an equal level with.

I expect that one of the driving reasons, aside from the financial aspects, why the great chefs want to open bistros is because many of their clients want to go to restaurants to have uncomplicated food without compromising quality. Much of the food in these “New Celebrity-Chef Bistros” is very good, although undoubtedly a few are quite pedestrian, as we must remember that the starred chefs are only creating the menus not working in the kitchen. On the whole, they are trying to purchase the best and freshest basic produce, that is key in this type of operation, as they cannot fall back on expensive ingredients to make the their dishes taste good, and that is why it takes more talent to create dishes out of common ingredients without relying on exotic ones.
The unfortunate truth is that French people are not dining out as much as they once did, and at least the younger generation, are emulating the bad dining habits exhibited by the British and Americans masses. The sad fact is that little bistros are closing all over the city or are a landscape of empty tables. One day the citizens of Paris will finally wake up, look around, and say, “What has happened to all of our restaurants?” The fault will ultimately be theirs!

Restaurant Drouant

Sunday, February 1st, 2009


16-18 Place Gaillon
75002 Paris
Tel. 33 (0)1 42 65 15 16
Metro station “Opéra” or “4 Septembre” 180 meters
Cuisine : French gastronomic
Opening Hours: Daily Lunch: Noon-2:30pm; Dinner: 7pm-Midnight (closed August)
Outdoor Dining, WiFi, Valet Parking
Cuisine : French gastronomic
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Expensive

Within a few steps of the Opera de Paris, restaurant Drouant offers refined cuisine from three-star Michelin Chef Antoine Westermann from Alsace. It is also the place where the prestigious Goncourt, Renaudot and Apollinaire literary awards are given each year in one of the dining salons, which must be accessed by climbing the magnificent Ruhlmann staircase. Renowned for their plateaus of shimmering oysters and brilliant Alsatian cuisine along with a well-stocked cellar of wines from that same region, and as an added bonus the front of house is in the hands of Antony Clemot who left Ile Saint Louis’s Mon Vieil Ami’s kitchen to become the manager.