This fine product is imported from France, it is available in Bangkok at Villa Market
Archive for the ‘France’ Category
Vraí French Yogurt Available at Villa Market – Bangkok
Sunday, May 2nd, 2010Château Chalon and the Jura
Sunday, August 23rd, 2009
Château Chalon, is not really my style of wine, nor even close. A protective blanket of yeasts or voile that rests on top of the wine, while partly protecting it at the same time allows oxidation and it imparts a strange nutty, salty character. This element gives these wines a difference and sets them apart from ordinary wine. From my standpoint, I am extremely sensitive to the slightest oxidation that occurs in open wine that is coming down from its peak, and over-oxidation would, well . . . turn me off, altogether. I remember vaguely that my first encounter with this type of wine was in a Michelin-starred restaurant in the Franche-Comté, while traveling from France to Switzerland, and I believe, the second experience was when I dined over a period of time at the restaurant Chez Maitre Paul, 12 Rue Monsieur Le Prince, Paris, where I enjoyed a chicken with a sauce made with vin jaune. When I first ordered a bottle of the local wine the waiter warned me that most customers, including his French guests, did not enjoy these wines. They are different he stressed.
Why then am I writing about it? And why are sommeliers and others in the trade going bonkers for it? This is because they are different and that is in itself is interesting even though, these wines are not my personal favorites. However, no matter what I think; there is a source for them by following this link: http://www.chateauchalon.com/ also note that they have quite an excellent selection of Absinthe at this page: http://www.absintheclassics.com/ In addition you can take a look at my previous post about absinthe: http://www.restaurantdiningcritiques.com/wp-admin/post.php?action=edit&post=81
The wine comes from a minuscule appellation in France’s Jura region devoted to the production of vin jaune. It is a grape that turns deep yellow as it ages for years in wooden barrels that are filled only partway. The oxygen that gets into the barrels would turn most wines to vinegar, but vin jaune survives due to the aforementioned voile. It is illegal to be imported into the United States due to the odd-sized bottle, which is only 620 ml. The illegal part is the short, squat bottle traditional to the area that holds only 620 ml. In the U.S., and only standard bottle sizes, such as 375ml, 750 ml and larger (magnum, jeraboam etc.), are recognized. and unfortunately, not 620 ml.
“Jean Berthet-Bondet is a producer of these wines made in an oxidized style, although not all of his wines are made in this way; it turns out that he also makes a bright, yeasty, mineral-laden Chardonnay and a sharp, light red from a blend of the local Trousseau, Poulsard, and Pinot Noir, both of which are entirely legal. He also makes a blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin that is aged for just two years or under and tastes like salted caramel. These wines go well with smoked fish, or white meat in a cream sauce and also with dishes made with frogs, as they have an abundance in Franche-Comté.”
The Franche-Comté is called the Jura often as not, and the two names are used interchangeably. This is the land of Gruyère cheese, and the people of the Jura were making it centuries before the Swiss were. It is a Herculean job but it is worth the effort, for when they finally wrench it from the earth, they have the gentian root, an aromatic substance which, distilled, forms the basis for many a liqueur and apéritif including the popular Suze. Absinthe plants abound in these hills, also, and it is not surprising to learn that this is the home of Pernod. The banks of those lakes and streams are inhabited with frogs. Frogs’ legs are a subtle delicacy awaiting in many country inns. There is also fish stew, filled with undertones of flavor—white wine, herbs, spices, small onions, and mushrooms. Called i matelote, a pochouse, or a meurette, it doesn’t matter. He should have subtlety, savor, and seductiveness. Tench, carp, perch, eel, and pike will all contribute to his happiness. And there are a dozen of dry white wines of the province to act as companions.
“Château Chalon is only for special occasions”, Mr. Berthet-Bondet says. “There simply isn’t much of it with only 136 acres specified for its production. And it takes ages for the wine to realize its full potential”.
Restaurants in the Gastronomic City of Lyon – France
Tuesday, June 30th, 2009
The City of Lyon is known to be the “Gastronomic City of France”. They eat, breathe, and talk food all day long.
Charolais beef, Beaujolais wines, Saint Marcellin cheese, quenelles of pike from the Dombes, Bresse poultry, sausages with pistachios are the bounties of the area around Lyon. Bocuse, Chapel and other great chefs are neighboring in areas close by . . .
These are the best restaurants now, and the list will be updated:
LYONNAISE SPECIALITIES
AU PETIT BOUCHON CHEZ GEORGES Lyonnaise cuisine from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 78 28 30 46
AU RENDEZ VOUS DES AMIS Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 24 37 54
AUX TROIS COCHONS, LE PERE FILLION Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 72 41 93 31
BOUCHON COMPTOIR BRUNET Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 37 44 31
BOUCHON DES BERGES Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 62 69 88
BOUCHON DES CARNIVORES Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 37 01 94
BOUCHON DES FILLES Lyonnaise cuisine from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 78 30 40 44
BOUCHON LYONNAIS CHEZ PAUL Lyonnaise cuisine from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 78 28 35 83
BOUCHON LYONNAIS, LE LAURENCIN Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 37 97 37
CAFE COMPTOIR ABEL Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 37 46 18
CAFE DES FEDERATIONS Lyonnaise cuisine from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 78 28 26 00
CHABERT ET FILS Lyonnaise cuisine from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 78 37 01 94
CHEZ HUGON – BOUCHON LYONNAIS Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 28 10 94
DANIEL ET DENISE Lyonnaise cuisine from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 78 60 66 53
LA GARGOUILLE Lyonnaise cuisine less than 15 € +33 (0)4 78 92 83 02
LA MACHONNERIE Lyonnaise cuisine from 35 to 60 € +33 (0)4 78 42 24 62
LA MEUNIERE Lyonnaise cuisine from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 78 28 62 91
LA VOUTE, CHEZ LEA Lyonnaise cuisine from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 78 42 01 33
LE BISTROT D’AUGUSTE Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 37 16 64
LE CAVEAU Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 37 35 04
LE GOURMAND DE SAINT-JEAN Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 37 97 37
LE JURA Lyonnaise cuisine from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 78 42 20 57
LE MUSEE Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 37 71 54
LE PALAIS SAINT JEAN Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 38 15 74 / +33 (0)6 14 49 37 24
LE PATAGON LYONNAIS Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 38 14 14
LE PETIT FLORE Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 27 27 51
LE SAINT VINCENT Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 72 07 70 43
LES LYONNAIS Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 37 64 82
RESTAURANT D’ENGHIEN Lyonnaise cuisine less than 15 € +33 (0)4 78 37 42 63
RESTO HALLE Lyonnaise cuisine from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 62 66 54
VATEL Lyonnaise cuisine from 35 to 60 € +33 (0)4 78 38 21 92
GASTRONOMIC RESTAURANTS
AUBERGE DE CLOCHEMERLE Gastronomic Restaurants from 35 to 60 € +33 (0)4 74 03 20 16
AUBERGE DE FOND ROSE Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 78 29 34 61
CHATEAU DE BAGNOLS, LA SALLE DES GARDES Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 74 71 40 00
CHRISTIAN TETEDOIE Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 78 29 40 10
DOMAINE DES SEQUOIAS Gastronomic Restaurants from 35 to 60 € +33 (0)4 74 93 78 00
FERNAND DUTHION “LES GRILLONS” Gastronomic Restaurants from 35 to 60 € +33 (0)4 78 35 04 78
GUY LASSAUSAIE Gastronomic Restaurants from 35 to 60 € +33 (0)4 78 47 62 59
L’ALOUETTE Gastronomic Restaurants from 35 to 60 € +33 (0)4 78 40 06 08
L’ARC EN CIEL Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 78 63 55 00
LA MERE BRAZIER Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 78 23 17 20
LA PYRAMIDE, FERNAND POINT Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 74 53 01 96
LARIVOIRE Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 78 88 50 92
LE BEAU RIVAGE Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 74 56 82 82
LE GOURMET DE SEZE Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 78 24 23 42
LÉON DE LYON Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 72 10 11 12
LES TERRASSES DE LYON Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 72 56 56 56
LES TROIS DOMES Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 72 41 20 20
NICOLAS LE BEC Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 78 42 15 00
PAUL BOCUSE, AUBERGE DU PONT DE COLLONGES Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 72 42 90 90
RELAIS GOURMAND ALAIN CHAPEL Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 78 91 82 02
RESTAURANT PHILIPPE GAUVREAU Gastronomic Restaurants more than 60 € +33 (0)4 78 87 79 79
BRASSERIES
33 CITE Brasseries from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 37 45 45 45
BEST HOTEL Brasseries less than 15 € +33 (0)4 78 20 42 22
BISTROT DE LA TOUR Brasseries from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 63 55 00
BISTROT DE LYON Brasseries from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 78 38 47 47
BRASSERIE DES BROTTEAUX Brasseries from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 72 74 03 98
BRASSERIE DU HILTON Brasseries from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 78 17 50 50
BRASSERIE ELITE Brasseries from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 37 29 80
BRASSERIE GEORGES Brasseries from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 72 56 54 54
BRASSERIE LE REPUBLIQUE Brasseries less than 15 € +33 (0)4 78 42 59 56
BRASSERIE LE SILK Brasseries from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 72 41 20 20
BRASSERIE LES ARCADES Brasseries from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 30 19 80
BRASSERIE LYON PLAGE Brasseries from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 72 10 44 44
CAFE LEFFE Brasseries from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 27 27 07
DOUBLE SIX GUITAR CAFE Brasseries less than 15 € +33 (0)4 78 47 20 16
EDEN ROCK CAFE Brasseries from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 38 28 18
IBIS LYON CALUIRE PALAIS DES CONGRES Brasseries from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 72 27 75 00
L’ALCHIMIE Brasseries from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 78 42 03 31
LA BOURBONNAISE – BUFFET GRILL Brasseries from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 02 80 58
LA CASCADE Brasseries less than 15 € +33 (0)4 78 87 02 70
LE BOUDOIR Brasseries from 35 to 60 € +33 (0)4 72 74 04 41
LE CABOCHON Brasseries from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 72 84 10 40
LE GRAND CAFE DES NEGOCIANTS Brasseries from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 78 42 50 05
LES BELLES SAISONS Brasseries from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 72 77 15 00
MIDI MINUIT, TAVERNE MAITRE KANTER Brasseries from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 37 67 95
NINKASI GERLAND Brasseries from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 72 76 89 00
PLAZA LOUNGE Brasseries from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 37 92 90 18
RESTAURANT B 52 Brasseries from 15 to 25 € +33 (0)4 78 35 06 81
ZINC ZINC Brasseries from 25 to 35 € +33 (0)4 78 92 82 96
Paul Bocuse, Auberge de Collonges – France
Monday, June 1st, 2009
(This is Part 2 of the previous post entitled Troisgros Restaurant, Roanne, France. Please excuse me for a great deal of overlapping and redundancy, however, I did this rather than to combine the two posts into what might have been a confusing weave). We were on our way to St.Tropez from Paris I was behind the wheel along with my “really” crazy and now former and late, blond wife, and a friend for many years Hoki Miller, who was the American author, Henry Miller’s wife. Henry stayed on in Paris as he was visiting his long-time friend French actress, Jeanne Moreau.
We arrived in Roanne where the famous Michelin three-star restaurant Troisgros was located in close proximity to the train station. We pulled into the courtyard of the restaurant creating quite a stir as the two women, one blond and one black-haired Japanese alighted from the Rolls Royce Silver Cloud II that displayed California license plates. In fact, all the kitchen staff swarmed into the parking to take a closer look, and all were eager to help with the baggage. The management insisted that the rooms were too modest but I insisted they were not and we prevailed.
We had an excellent dinner as usual, at this great temple of gastronomy. After we had finished we were all in need of a brisk walk to help digest the multi-course Degustation Menu. After we returned Jean Troisgros asked us to join him and his brother Pierre and their father Jean-Baptiste, while they tasted some very special local charcuterie from small local producers, accompanied by some very good Rhône wine. While finishing what was to be our second, although lighter repast of the evening, they suggested that on the following day we should pay a visit to their very good friend, Paul Bocuse and have lunch at his “Auberge de Collonges” on the Saône River near to the outskirts of Lyon. Jean picked up the telephone and talked to Bocuse and made a reservation with instructions to prepare the whole pike fish en croûte and other specialties of his.
With all the fine produce he had to draw from in and around the Lyonnaise area; the Beaujolais wines, the pike from the Dombes, his famous dish of the whole Pike in pastry with the scales in such exact detail, the poultry from Bresse, the Charolais beef. Paul Bocuse is one of the great chefs, with a world-wide reputation, but he also is magnanimous enough to give credit to his young chefs and to his purveyors.
Hoki told be on the way down that she thought it would be impossible for her to eat anything more and she wondered what she was going to do. I told her, “You have to do it somehow, drink some white wine before lunch to re-kindle your appetite—as this, I stressed to her, is one of a very few examples of the best cuisine France has to offer.
After an incredible lunch at Bocuse we headed to the home of British author, Lawrence Durrell in Nimes. The first words out of his mouth after opening the door were, “Please do not expect three-star cuisine here, just simple cooking from the area.” It was a resounding, “Oh, Good!” from all of us.
Brasserie Le Nord – Lyon, France
Sunday, October 19th, 2008
Brasserie le Nord, Lyon
18 rue Neuve, Presqu’ile, Lyon
Tel. 04-72-10-69-69
Website: www.paulbocuse.com
Opening Hours: Daily for lunch and dinner
Reservations recommended
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Moderate-Expensive
It is a luxury to taste selections from a traditional brasserie menu along with Lyonnaise dishes and ingredients accompanied by rivers of Beaujolais and is made even more significent in this; the gastronomic heart of France. The brasserie called Le Nord (North), one of four in Lyon (north, south, east and west) were created by world-famous chef, Paul Bocuse and the service is very professional and the restaurant classically highlighted by dark wood paneling and polished brass, with crisp white table linen.
Charolais beef, Beaujolais wines, Saint Marcellin cheese, quenelles of pike from the Dombes, Bresse poultry, sausages with pistachios are all available in the Brasserie du Nord. Bocuse likes to reveal the producers he uses for all ingredients, as he well knows it is imperative to have them or his cooking would suffer. It is simplicity, although at the same time, it personifies excellence.
Troisgros Restaurant – Roanne, France
Tuesday, October 14th, 2008
Hôtel Restaurant Troisgros
Place Jean Troisgros 42300 Roanne
Tel. (33) 04 77 71 66 97
Fax. 04 77 70 39 77
Website: www.troisgros.fr
Opening Hours: Lunch: Noon – 2:00pm; Dinner: 6pm-10pm
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Very Expensive
Three Michelin Stars
Many years ago we were driving from Paris to St. Tropez on a gastronomic tour and made it a point to stop at the three-star Michelin restaurant Toisgros in Roanne for dinner. Our friend the author, Henry Miller decided to stay in Paris as he was visiting French actress, Jeanne Moreau whom he had not seen in a awhile, and agreed that his wife singer, Hoki Tokuda should travel with my wife and I to St. Tropez.
When we pulled into the courtyard of the restaurant Troisgros the entire kitchen crew came out to greet us, it may have been the California license plate on the Rolls Royce Silver Cloud II or perhaps the unusual sight, in this part of the world, of an Asian and a blond girl stepping out of the car, or possibly both. I had the unusual request, or at least they thought it was, to stay in what were at that time modest rooms above the restaurant. Shortly after our visit they started renovation and built a serious boutique hotel where I stayed in splendid accommodations a few years later. They tried to persuade us not to stay there and proclaimed it was not comfortable enough, although after much insistence about wanting to be close to the cooking they agreed.
That evening we enjoyed among other courses the eggs with caviar, pâté de grives, escalope of salmon with sorrel sauce (it was first created here) and Charolais beef with marrow and sauce Fleurie with potatoes gratin “Forezienne”, cheese trolley and Le Grand Dessert (a combination of ice creams, sorbets, stewed & fresh fruit and fruit sauces along with other delight that you could combine as you liked) all of these dishes are still available with the exception of the pâté de grives, which is most likely due to the scarcity of the thrush or because it is perceived as environmentally incorrect.
After dinner we took a walk around what was at that time the unattractive downtown area near the train station to help digest the dinner. We returned later only to be invited by the Toisgros brothers, Jean and Pierre and their father Jean-Baptiste, who created an uproar in culinary circles when he first paired fish with red wine, to join them for some local charcutrie, cheese and wine. As we were finishing our “second repast” they all suggested that we stop in the next day to visit their good friend, Paul Bocuse for lunch at the “Auberge de Collonges” on the Saône river on the outskirts of Lyon. Jean called him and booked the table for lunch the following day and requested the whole fish in pastry as one of the dishes to be served. (post on Auberge de Collonges to follow soon).
Today, the Maison Troisgros restaurant/hotel and Le Central, the bistro and shop next door, are ably run by Marie-Pierre and Michel Troisgros (Pierre’s son). Michel is the chef who uses a touch of the exotic but never loses touch with the original classic base and his wife Marie-Pierre runs the front of house and supervises designs for the multi-operations.
Cannes 2008/2009 – Travelers on a Budget, Reasonably Priced Restaurants
Wednesday, October 8th, 2008
Côté Jardin – Menu at €23, Carte €29/37
12 Avenue Saint Louis
Tel. 04 93 38 60 28
email: www.cotejardin.com@wanadoo.fr
Opening Hours: Closed 27 October-5 Nov, Sunday and Monday
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Inexpensive-Moderate
This quaint restaurant is located in a residential area and has a friendly staff that are usually quite attentive. Off the main dining room there is a veranda and a small garden surrounded by flowers and green shrubs. A blackboard menu and a four-course set menu at 23€ are reasonably priced.
La Mere Besson – Menu €29/34, Carte €31/48
13 Rue Freres-Pradignac
Tel. 04 93 39 59 24
email: www.lamerebesson@wanadoo.fr
Opening Hours: Dinner Only; Closed Sunday
Credit Cads: All Major
Prices: Moderate
La Mere Besson has become a legend; she first began her restaurant in the 1930’s and certain dishes from her original Provençal menu are in use today by this restaurant named in her honor. It might be a Le Grand Aioli that consists of a plate of fish, vegetables, and aioli (a garlicky sauce) or a farcis niçois. A set menu from 29€-34€ Reservations advisable.
Caveau 30 – Menu €17, Carte €34/64
45 rue Félix-Faure, Cannes
Tel. 04-93-39-06-33
email: lecaveau30@wanadoo.fr
Opening Hours: Brasserie open throughout the day
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Inexpensive-Moderate
Caveau 30 is a brasserie split between two large dining rooms specializing in fresh seafood. Start off with a seafood platter and follow with one of the classic dishes on offer either bouillabaisse, pot-au-feu of seafood or shellfish paella. The 1930s décor along with an accompanying terrace and a set menu at 17€ makes this an interesting dining experience.
Le Mesclun
Tuesday, October 7th, 2008
Le Mesclun
16 Rue Saint Antoine
Cannes, France
Tel. 04 03 99 45 19
Fax.04 93 49 29 11
Opening Hours: Dinner Only (Closed 29 June-9 July, 1 February-2 March and Sunday)
Credit cards: All Major
Prices: Moderate
A warm, inviting restaurant with subdued lighting serving Provençal cuisine by a pleasant staff and located in the old village “Le Suquet”. The set menu at €39 has many excellent choices and I would vigoriously recommend embarking on that course.
Le Felix Restaurant – Cannes, France
Monday, October 6th, 2008
Restaurant Le Felix
63 Boulevard Croisette, Cannes, 06400, France.
Tel. +33 (4) 93940061
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Expensive
Felix is centrally located directly on ‘La Croisette’ and is magically positioned next to the Carlton, with a large terrasse in front; in case you may not be aware, this is the “A” section. If you are ushered inside and cannot be seated on the “terrasse”, then just do not bother, as you will be missing all the action and the entire effort is pointless. There is no doubt, that the scene here is: to see and be seen. Even a much publicized appearance earlier this year (2008) by Madonna and Guy Ritchie and numerous entrances of other Hollywood “celebs”, especially during the Cannes Film Festival, the fact is pure and simple—Felix has been there for donkey’s years and is becoming quite tiresome—mainly because it draws crowds that are too large in peak season, and due to this the feeling of exclusivity is fast disappearing.
Le Château de la Chèvre d’Or Hotel & Restaurants
Sunday, October 5th, 2008
Le Château de la Chèvre d’Or
Moyenne Corniche, Rue du Barri
06360 Eze Village – Cote d´Azur – France
Tel. +33 (0)492 106 666
Fax : +33 (0)493 410 672
email : reservation@chevredor.com
Website: www.chevredor.com
High above the sea in the mountains between Nice and Monaco in the picturesque village of Eze is the impeccable hotel with a two-starred Michelin restaurant Château de la Chêvre d’Or. It is a 14th century castle that has been transformed into a 4-star hotel. A terrace provides magnificent views of the sea, a lovely swimming pool as well as an intricate, African-styled garden. The present owner bought it in the eighties and added more rooms, which meant they had to buy houses in the ancient village and convert them. I have always made it a point when in the south of France to squeeze in a visit to the village of Eze if only to have lunch.
