Archive for the ‘Chicago’ Category

Two Restaurant Legends, Blackhawk & Nick’s Fishmarket, Close Their Doors – Chicago

Wednesday, November 4th, 2009

Blackhawk, Closes Last Restaurant in Chicago Area

A Sign of the Times . . . Don Roth’s Blackhawk will close at the end of the year in Wheeling, ending a 90-year run of a Blackhawk restaurant in the Chicago region.
The Blackhawk is closing at 61 N. Milwaukee, Wheeling, because owner Ann Roth, Don Roth’s widow, concluded it was time. “With my 90th birthday on the horizon and none of my children in a position to assume responsibility for the family business, it will be better to close Don’s last restaurant while it is still a going concern,” she said in a press release.
The original Blackhawk on Wabash was where Roth introduced his “spinning salad bowl.” It also was known for hosting Big Bands, such as the orchestras of Les Brown, Bob Crosby and Kay Kyser, with some performances broadcast nationwide on WGN Radio.
The downtown restaurant closed in 1984 and its Big Band memorabilia moved to Wheeling. Some of the restaurant mementos will be given to longtime patrons when they come by for the last time.

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Nick’s Fishmarket, which has been in the Loop for 32 years, closed after serving dinner on Friday 30 October 2009. The owner of the restaurant, who could not re-negotiate his lease at a lower price with the bank who owns the property, J.P. Morgan Chase & Co., said that if he finds a new location it will be focused on grilled items as he thinks fine dining will not make a comeback until 2011.

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Brasserie Jo – Chicago

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009

Brasserie Jo
59 W. Hubbard
312-595-0800
Chicago, Il
www.brasseriejo.com
French Brasserie
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Moderate

While attending the Chicago Restaurant Show either in May 1996 or 1997 I had the pleasure to have dinner at Brasserie Jo and met Chef Jean Joho, and also present that evening was Patrick Terrail and many other Los Angeles restaurateurs that I knew. I had this to say about Brasserie Jo sometime after:

“Brasserie Jo holds a very special place in America. It is a true Alsatian Brasserie decorated in the style of the turn of the last century and I can not think of another restaurant in this country that comes as close to duplicating the authentic feeling of a true French brasserie as this restaurant does. Brasserie Jo was and remains to be a hit since it opened in 1995.
Accomplished maitre d’hotel, Jean-Marie Vandenbulcke, handles the front and Jean Joho supervises the kitchen. Alsatian wines are featured along with many French and Belgian beers that can be quaffed at the 20 seat zinc bar that was imported from France. The enormous dining room is usually packed with people and an interesting event happens every Thursday night, the “Soiree de Chapeau” where customers that wear a stylish hat win a free dessert.
The brasserie can accommodate private parties of up to 80 people and the patio seats 30.
The wonderful Alsatian menu is supported by an excellent and broad ranging wine list that has many interesting choices from the Alsace region as well as a good selection of French aperitifs and eaux de vie.
Starters: Onion soup gratinée
in crock; Assortment of pate; Duck Rilette; Smoked Salmon, crispy potato; Pate en croute Strasbourgeoise; Oysters daily selection with shallot migonette la piece. Main courses: Roasted Chicken, pomme puree; Garlic Chicken, pomme puree; Chicken Coq au vin; Filet of Salmon, lentils; The Famous Shrimp Bag; Mussels, Riesling sauce, pommes persillees; Brasserie Skirt Steak, shallot red wine; Steak, pomme frites; Choucroute a l’alsacienne.”

As with everything else time passes, and things may not be as glorious as they once were under the present Rich Melman’s “Lettuce Entertain You” blanket. Although, on the other hand, it still has the brasserie look and feel and I was happy with everything including the wine list, extensive beer menu, steak frites, mussels, the excellent crusty bread, profiteroles, the shrimp bag with lobster sauce. All tolled, nothing much had changed and the menu was much the same, and it still remains one of my favorite French brasseries in the United States.

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Frontera Grill, Topolobampo – Chicago

Wednesday, April 2nd, 2008

445 N. Clark St., Chicago
http://www.rickbayless.com
(312) 661-1434
Closed Sunday & Monday
Quality Mexican
Prices: Moderate

Both restaurants are located in the same building, Frontera Grill (seating 65) is the more casual of the two restaurants and Topolobampo, the higher-end operation, seats only 45. They both share the same entrance and both have outdoor seating. Chef/Owner Rick Bayless is nationally acclaimed for his authentic cooking that represents many of the important gastronomic areas within Mexico. He is relentless in his quest for the finest ingredients and to truly reproduce Mexican cuisine on the highest level. Tamales de Pescado Yucatecan tamales flavored with achiote, filled with fresh catfish, steamed in bananas leaves and served with fresh tomato sauce; Garnachas small homemade tortillas topped with savory pork pibil, pickledonions and habanero salsa; Cazuela de Borrego al Cascabel charcoal-
seared lamb simmered with woodland mushrooms, potatoes and Mexican vegetables; Guacamole fresh and chunky, served with tortilla chips; Tostaditas made-to-order tortilla chips with two salsas; three-chile (cascabel, morita, guajillo) and roasted tomatillo with serrano and cilantro; Puerco en Salsa Roja grilled pork tenderloin in spicy New Mexico red chile sauce with grilled red onions and black beans.

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Farewell, Le Francais – Wheeling Il. (Chicago) (CLOSED)

Monday, March 24th, 2008

It was located at:
269 South Milwaukee Avenue, Wheeling, IL
(708) 541-7470
French
Very Expensive

After researching one of the most famous French restaurants in America I discovered that present owner Michael Moran closed the restaurant last summer. The telephone at the restaurant does not respond and it looks as if Le Francais, after one comeback attempt, is now gone forever.

I remember driving up to Wheeling from Chicago en route to dinner at Le Francais, when Jean Banchet was still in the kitchen. I was with my friend and business partner and his then girlfriend who was at the time getting a divorce from her present husband. She was still wearing the wedding ring from her previous marriage, quite a large solitaire diamond, and somehow in a cavalier way I convinced them to throw it away, as a sign of true love. She took it off after much hesitation, and I tossed it out the window into the cornfields. Looking back at it now, it was a damn stupid thing to do, although they were married shortly after and now have three lovely children, the oldest of them is over twenty years old.

Le Francais was an Auberge (country inn) that you would typically expect to find somewhere in the countryside of France; in this case, it was located in the suburb of Wheeling about an hour or more from Chicago. The restaurant comfortably seated 90 patrons on a combination of tables and banquettes. Copper pots and utensils decorated the walls and hung from the ceiling in true Auberge fashion.

Originally, after he took over from Banchet, and on his return with Mr. Moran, Chef Roland Liccioni strived to keep the reputation of the restaurant at the highest standards, which founder Jean Banchet maintained before his retirement many years ago.

A “duet de foie gras,” which paired seared fresh duck foie gras with a thick slice of foie gras torchon.Two preparations of foie gras served over slices of daikon radish served over a bed of diced beets and roasted macadamia nuts; An assortment of game and fowl pates and terrines made with care from traditional recipes; Maine Lobster ravioli garnished with sautéed shrimp accompanied by
a lobster sauce or Vietnamese broth; Portobella mushroom tart served with fava bean and perigueux sauce; Napoleon of Sauteed foie gras with cumin bracelets accompanied by a sauce with slices of salsify; Wild mushroom soup garnished with seafood were just a few of the dishes served in this excellent restaurant.

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